I Like Socks

Left: Marc Jacobs S2008RTW, via Style.com.  September 10, 2007.  Prada S2008RTW, via Style.com.  September 25, 2007.

Right: Alexander Wang S2010RTW, via Style.com. September 12, 2009. Valentino S2010RTW, via Style.com. October 6, 2009.

Now, for Then/Now posts I normally just like to let you make your own observation/inferences, without me being like, LOOKIT.  But this isn’t so much a case of “everything old is new again” as “hey, ‘sheer pants runway‘ is actually a great search term and maybe let’s examine how it did two or three years ago before postulating the lifespan and plausibility of this ‘trend’.”

The see-through separate–spotted at Prada, Costume National, among others–works with spring’s pajama-party look as well as the ‘80s trend, but the jury’s still out if these will work for normal women (will something that emphasizes rather than streamline the leg really flatter everyone?) or if they’ll just be a fantastic accoutrement for magazine shoots and adventurous red-carpet types.
Glam Chic.  October 4, 2007.

But when it comes to pants, we have a feeling that the only ones that should be wearing them see-through style are belly dancers and fire eaters. But Alexander Wang and Valentino both showed barely there pants this year, and a quick scan of our favorite e-commerce shops show that they’re is being stocked in stores. Should we be equal-opportunists when it comes to all things sheer?
Refinery 29. June 1, 2010.

In acknowledgement of the shoe+sock trend, W magazine dressed the models in Marc Jacobs flats and Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs crews for one of their spreads in the June issue (and in one slide in another spread).

Details from W Magazine’s “Sweater Girl” styled by Alex White

The socks are simple ones, flat knit with a “comfort top” (tall ribbed cuff). Here are two styles that serve the same look, for significantly less dollars and hassle:

Bastia Comfort Top Crew, in Denim

EG Eco Comfort Top Crew, in Linen

Left: Teenage girl wearing ankle socks and high heeled shoes.  Nina Leen, December 1944. Via Life’s archives on Google.

Right: Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2010 Ready to Wear.  Via Style.com.

(though it’s being treated as a new trend, socks and heels have been noted on catwalks since the Spring/Summer 2008 show, at least)

What I liked most about this outfit was that, if it got colder, she could un-scrunch the leggings and cover her knees.  And if it got warmer, she could take off the sweater and go with the tank underneath.  Surprisingly few people seem to dress for the severe weather changes the NW early summer brings.

This guy was just great.  I have been in the shops that awesome Mexican men go to and I still don’t know where the hell they pull out the purple jeans.

And bless windbreakers.  Those seem to have gone the way of the brontosaurus.  They were these things that we all grew up with and are now just endless printed hoodies and those jackets from Columbia Sportswear or somewhere sporty/technical.

There are a couple of things, during this season of costumes, that are asked about by customers at work.  One of my favourites is “how do I get the stockings (leggings?) the Alice character wears in Resident Evil: Extinction?”

The internet is mildly clogged with answers to finding the right holsters, or you can look at images of the original costume and really, it isn’t that difficult to get info.  But there wasn’t anything I could find (at this time) specifically about the stockings, which are basically self-gartered.

Tights are, in general, a bitch to fit.  If you’re leggy, or rounded, or some combo of both, odds are the crotch of the damn things end up somewhere lower than they’re supposed to, giving you that sexy penguin waddle.  So chopping the legs off a pair of tights and tying them back on will just lose you precious length in the leg.

So, here is a simple step-by-step to get the self-garter look.

1. Find yourself a pair of tights or leggings. Foot Traffic’s Combed Cotton in Brown, Chocolate, or Heather Mocha are all good bets for the Alice costume, and are comparable to Rit dyes I’ve worked with before, so you can match the shirt to the tights.
2. Put the tights on, making sure the legs are straight (this is important to positioning the “garter”).  Now, using a fabric marker or pen that will wash out, mark the center-point of your thigh.  Do this at the height you want the self-garter to be.
3. Take the tights off.  Laying them flat and even, make two marks to either side of the center-point you just made.  You want the total width to be about 1.5 inches.
4. Using the marks you’ve just made as a guide, cut a shallow wedge from the sides in.  Set the pieces you’ve cut out aside.
5. Almost done.
   
6. Now, take those bits you cut out and tie them around the self-garter you just made, back and front.  Wrap them around several times, it bulks up the “knot”.  I find it’s easier to do this when they’re on, as you can judge things a little better.  Trim any extra ends.
7. BAM. You actually get a little extra length this way, even.

I was stuck at home sick, missing over half a day of work, which I’m crazy guilty about.  So, here is a work-related fluff piece about arm and leg warmers.  Which—PS—are not just an “80′s thing” but a snappy and smart way to layer during the unpredictable weather of fall and spring.

It’s been interesting watching how the fashion world is dealing with the shifts in economy and social opinion.  Last year we saw an increase of focus on legwear (to my delight), this year I am noticing more and more attention paid to nails.  It’s these little, changeable things that can bulk out a wardrobe without shattering a budget.  Or, if you couldn’t give two shits about your seasonal attire, they’re things that extend your clothing’s ability to cover you in weather.  Fun to play with and cheap enough not to prevent you from playing.

Back to the subject at hand/foot: arm and leg warmers are one of those things.  Not quite legwear, equally hated and loved and surprisingly interchangeable.  Like, really surprisingly.

At work we’re often reminding people that leg warmers, being simple tubes, can go on the arms as well.  This is great for the monkey-armed (like me) and for those days when it is 45º in the morning and 94º at the height of the day.

They’re long enough that the look is more layered, so you don’t invoke the wrath of folks who roll eyes at the pairing of t-shirt and arm warmers.

But the point of this exercise, really, is to show the fab idea my boss has been rocking, which is arm warmers as toeless tabi leg warmers.  It probably breaks like, so many laws.  I see so many people shivering sockless in flats and sandals no matter the weather that I feel it is for the greater good (and the greater good’s amusement) that I give an example.

It all comes back to the same thing I am always saying.  Play, experiment.  It’s just clothes.

I know, I know. I’ve been gone for simply ages. I’m well past the point where I could just stick up a post as if I hadn’t been gone. So I have to acknowledge it. After that last bit I was going to do a thing about I was going to link to this then, even and how they’re totally invading the runway. But then a thing came up, and another thing, and then a big thing and everything fell by the wayside. But my RSS started filling up last week with the runway again and I’m feeling the guilt and suddenly remembering that yes, I have been neglectful. All I can offer you in recompense are some of the more ridiculous socks I’ve ever worn.

Why would someone want 100 inches of sock?  There are quite a few people.   I have my theories, one terrible and one comprehensible (in theory).  There are people who want 200 inches of sock and at least one person who wants 400 inches.  Humans, amirite?

I cannot feel bad for abandoning you these past weeks, as all the usual suspects are doing nicely with the shows and really, I told you this wasn’t a place to keep up to date.  I’ve had my hands full doing a very, very nerdy thing.

I am, as I’ve noted, biased.  I think legwear, be it socks or tights or legwarmers, helps complete an outfit.  With makeup and hair, it frames and finishes a look.  Most designers these past couple of weeks seem to be favouring a bare leg, the silly gits.  Or they go for the plain canvas of a semi-sheer nylon, like what you can get at Fred Meyer or Target.  The rest seem to be clothing their models in tights,  but there are some who are having comparatively more fun.  I’m going to give you a bit of a cheat-sheet rundown, but first let me supply you with the basics.

Want tights?  There’s Foot Traffic Combed Cotton and E.G. Smith Leg Therapy. The first fits better and more folks, only one seam at the rear.  The second has more, and more vivid, colours, but if you’re not fan of the butt panel, then you might steer clear (they also have a history of not always making the legs the right length, or equal lengths, don’t even get me started).  Want the sleek microfiber look?  Then you want Erika Microfiber Tights, or there are stirrup and legging options.

Okay, that taken care of, let’s dig in after the jump.  Now, I’ll be adding as more trickle in, and God knows I’ve probably missed some. I’ve looked at maybe 150 slideshows of what walked the past couple of weeks, so you’ll have to forgive me and let me know what I did miss.

And sorry, darlings, no flyovers in these links. I would have just about died.

F2009 RTW

Albino—Tights, lightly ribbed, semi-sheer: MP Lightly Ribbed Tights (grey).

Alessandro Dell’Acqua—Possible toeless anklet, ribbed, sheer: still pondering if these are socks or shoe parts.

Alexander McQueen—Stocking vertical stripe; leather (could be attached to shoe): Vertical Stripe Thigh Highs (orange), Opaque Vertical Stripe.

Anna Sui—Tights, crochet pattern, psychedelic houndstooth, bright vertical stripes, irregular sparkle: Codori Crochet tights (black), or Liliana Crochet Luxury tight (black) nearly exact match; nothing like it for the houndstooth; closest match for the vertical would be Tights Striped Lengthwise; closest match for sparkle would be Lurex Shimmery thigh highs (gold/black).

Bottega Veneta—Ankle height, slightly slouched: B. Ella Meg Unconstricted Top Crew (black), Flat Knit Bell Top Anklet (black).

Charles Anastase—Mix of things,woven pattern tights, heathers, solids; loose striped or solid OTK/thigh high, also semi-sheer trouser sock: Kalana Wool Crochet tights (black) or Zurich Texture tights; Foot Traffic Combed Cotton (heather graphite), E.G. Smith Heathered Tights (heather graphite); Super Stripes (black & olive); June OTKs (caviar), Super Basics (black), O Woolies (black); B.Ella Trentata Trouser sock (espresso).

Christian Lacroix—Tights, lace printed, gold and black: Bebaroque Tattoo Me or Betty.

Comme Des Garcons—Midcalves under loose, seamed, beige/nude hose: nothing like it.

Dolce & Gabbana—Tights, possibly thigh high, black ruffle and gold ruffle backseam: Leg Avenue Lycra Mesh Thigh High with Ruffle Back Seam, closest match, out of stock at a lot of online shops.

Dsquared²—Midcalf, slouchy; plain knee high (could be same sock for both): EG Eco Comfort Top Knee High (black), Luisa Comfort Top Knee High (caviar). Note: these two do not like staying up, so they will create that fallen-down slouch quite naturally.

Emporio Armani—Trouser socks in knee high and midcalf: B.Ella Trentata Trouser sock (any), Heather Socklings (bark, slate grey); Flat Knit Bell Top Anklet (oxford grey).

House of Holland—Tights, extra-bold stripes with thinner white bands: nothing like it (Except I saw a girl on Killingsworth who had vaguely similar leggings, but damn if I don’t know where they came from.  I am hunting.)

Issey Miyake—Lace printed, colour-block stripe tights/leggings: nothing like it.

Jager London—Thigh highs (possibly loose tights) neutral tones, contrast bands and foot: nothing like it.

Jean Paul Gaultier—Tights, opaque and sheer duos; open net: Either Or Tights ; Warning Net Pantyhose.

Lucella—Tights, lurex: closest look would be Lurex Shimmery thigh highs (gold/black).

Marc Jacobs—Legging, fishnet: Lycra Seamless Fishnet Leggings (black).

Marc by Marc Jacobs—Tights, wide striped; segmented bold stripe legwarmer; slouched, flat ribbed socks, possibly legwarmers:  closest match Cronert Wide Stripe OTKs (cobalt, orange); Ribbed Wool Legwarmers (black, ivory), Coco Turncuff Knee Highs (caviar), Harajuku Super Loose Socks (black, ivory, white),Cotton Slouch Socks (black, natural, white, dark red).

Marni—Tights, woolly or cotton patterned, plaid, offset diamond:  Black and White Check Tartan tights.

Maurizio Pecoraro—Tights or stockings, subtle flocked dot: Tabbio Polka Dot Tights, Betsey’s Flashy Dots Capri leggings , closest match.

Miu Miu—Tights, spangled: Nothing like it.

Paul Smith Women—Tights and OTKs, heathered & fall tones: Foot Traffic Combed Cotton (heather mocha, heather graphite), E.G. Smith Heathered Tights (any), Plain Cotton Stockings (brown tweed), Lemonade Stockings (bittersweet brown).

Prada—Loose, Slouched to knee thick ribbed (could be part of shoe): Harajuku Super Loose Socks (black, night grey).

Rebecca Taylor—Mid-calf, heathered: Heather Socklings (chambray, slate grey), EG Eco Comfort Top Crew (denim), Relaxed Top Anklet (denim), Flat Knit Bell Top Anklet (oxford grey).

Ruffian—Tights, possible bodysuit, flocked or woven in dots: Tabbio Polka Dot Tights, Betsey’s Flashy Dots Capri leggings , closest match.

Tao—Ankle socks (ruffled?) with pom-poms: Closest match (most pom pom socks currently made have pom at back) Lace Ruffle Anklets (white) or Ruffle Shorties (white) with Pom Pom sock garters (white).

Tracy Reese—Thigh highs or OTKs, thick knit: O Woolies (black), Long Cuffable Scrunchables (black), Super Basics (black), OTK Tube Socks (black).

Vivenne Westwood—Knee high soccer style socks, various patterns; subtle opaque and sheer vertical stripedprinted sheer tights: no exact match on soccer socks, but Nike Centenario Game Sock, Dreamy Knee High Tube Socks; Kayla Stripe Trouser Sock (charcoal), Dobby Pinstripe Footless Tight; Tattoo Me, Betty, Roots and Smoke Print (grey).

Vivienne Westwood Red Label—Knee highs, semi-sheer trouser sock and thicker roll or comfort tops:  B.Ella Trentata Trouser sock (caviar, graphite); O Pastels (banana).

Wunderkind—Tights, printed vertical & pattern block: nothing like it.

Y-3—Mid-calf, black roll top: B. Ella Meg Unconstricted Top crew (black).

Zac Posen—Tights, large sparkle gradient in grey and red also a plain solid opaque cream, delicate fishnet and a knee high or OTK large-gague fishnet with seam in front worn over some: nothing like the sparkle gradient, maybe Zebra Lurex tights; B.Ella Refined Fishnet (any); the Fishnet Thigh Highs with Backseam which are tube-style and can worn ‘backwards’, also the Lace Up Fishnet Sock.

PF2009 (these two are important, when people want to copy legwear, 70% of the time it is these two)

Miu Miu—Legwarmers, knee high, ribbed: Cronert Ribbed Arm/Leg warmers (anthracite grey), Foot Traffic Ribbed Knit legwarmers (charcoal).

Prada—OTKs, ribbed, folded down: MP Ribbed Wool OTKs (black, grey).

I’m going to be a dick and say we all remember those laddered, loose-knit leggings from Rodarte’s F2008 line.

Anyhow,  unlike other much-loved legwear, this stuff never grew up to be a department store knock-off—though some industrious folks are filling that niche and others are building their own.  I’m a huge fan of altering clothing and legwear to extend an item’s life and generally get more out of the damn thing.  The beauty is the ability to fit something to your needs.  So my stubby legs?  I can cut up stockings in a way that the snags will show, instead of them ending up somewhere under my skirt.

Why exert effort doing something most try to avoid?   Beyond “because I can”, there is always something beautiful about looks that take far more dedication than you’d realised.  From the standpoint of someone who makes things:  objects like artfully torn stockings and perfectly balanced loose knits can look like such ass if you think you can just slop that shit together any-which-way.  Asymmetry is the most difficult to balance, natch.

So? Wanna try?